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In this video, we will show you how to install a man door in a shipping container. Container Modification World's man door kit makes it super easy to install the door anywhere on a sea can.VIDEO Purchase Container Modification World Products
hi I'm Channing McCorriston the
container guy today we're going to be
installing a container modification
world man door in the end wall of a
40-foot shipping container if you're a
container supplier and you're looking
for one door that does everything
hope you learned something after landing
a deal on national television in 2011
where his team pitched their idea of
modifying shipping containers he went on
to start his own business
since then he's completed thousands of
container modifications for clients in
now he wants to teach you everything he
knows about container modifications and
channing mccorrison is the container guy
the biggest problem that everyone has
when installing a man door in a
container including myself back in the
how do you shed the water can't just go
to your local lumber yard and grab any
wooden door and install it in the can if
you line it up between two corrugations
and the outside corrugations you might
have straight lines there but then you
got the corrugations above the door with
this door here it has the rain drip and
this return fold edge here that tucks in
what i mean by a container door that
does everything is that the hinges and
the door latch are centered on this door
so this door can be rotated one way or
another this rain drip is actually
removable so if you decide to install
your rain drip up at the top here with
your hinges to the left now we have a
what we call a left hand outswing door
and then if this rain drip here was
installed on the bottom it would be a
here we have the raindrips here the door
actually comes with two of them with
every door this rain drip uh with the
angled profile here is for the side wall
corrugations and then the other that's
just straight off that's for the end
wall corrugation so that's actually
what's uh riveted up there right now and
then finally this door will also work on
insulated containers so a smooth walled
container you just don't install the
the header here just sits up nicely up
against the aluminum and then just nice
so this door frame it's designed uh it's
corrugation dependent so it works on
outer corrugations so it allows you to
move it every 11 inches or 278
millimeters make sure that you're always
referring to the drawing sent to you
with this door to make sure you're
cutting the right uh ro grab your
and see if you know common sense does
the arrow dimensions on the drawing
actually match what will work in real
life so one thing to really note uh is
just that the ro will be two inches
taller when you're using the the drip
caps so if you're installing this on an
aluminum insulated can you'll be cutting
it at uh for now it's eighty and three
quarters of an inch high where otherwise
here we're gonna be doing 82 and three
quarter high and then 37 inches wide
the outside corrugations on both so
over here is where the door will be
riveted into place so nice wide chunk of
outer corrugation 82 and three quarters
up top that allows for our top bulb seal
and so if you're not using that just
make sure to provision for that extra
so the next step is to cut out the rough
opening i just want to say we use an
angle grinder and a six inch cut off
wheel that's what we prefer leaves a
nice clean edge when you're done when
cutting the bottom out especially we
provision for a little bit of weld left
underneath the footer so cut at the top
sink your cutting wheel right through
and then once you have that cut out just
clean off any of the corrugation that's
left standing but we leave about 3 16 of
an inch so if you leave a little bit
under there that actually supports the
threshold plate and then right before
you install the door just get a little
bit of silicone or caulk that'll just
seal that up from any ants or insects
from getting in underneath your door
another thing we want to note is just we
cut the bottom first and we leave a
little bit of sheet metal still attached
to the bottom corners so then once
you're done cutting up the sides and
across the roof and you drop the panel
outwards it just hinges on the bottom
and doesn't slide back into the can and
take out your ladder and hurt yourself
we have this uh fancy top bulb seal it's
called so it's like an automotive grade
we like to use it on the top edge of the
corrugations and so let's get started
the end wall corrugations are a lot more
of a rigid corrugation than the sidewall
it still manages to round the corners
there's some door seal that doesn't have
any of the bulb on it it's just the edge
trim and then that you can go down the
sides with it and there so yeah that
just sits right up against the top uh
top edge of the header so we use the
same thing for our uh windows our man
doors and the roll-up door frames and so
using silicone or caulking we'll show
you what that looks like once it's
compressed and we try to get i think
40 or 50 percent compression on the door
seal it just seems to be what the
so chandler's done a really nice job of
cutting this open and he just cleaned up
the corrugation and left the weld so our
door will just sit right on there we
all along the top edge of the
we're about to lift up the mandor right
now just make sure that the rain drip
here gets up underneath the corrugations
and then once we get it up there we'll
drill back through from the inside
through these laser-cut holes which will
hit all of the inside corrugations and
then we'll come from the outside and be
able to rivet those in place so we'll
outside edge we kind of start at the
bottom and make sure that we are
centered between the outside corrugation
so a similar amount of corrugation left
on both sides and then as you go up with
this door right here it's actually
leaning just a slight bit to the one
side so we're just going to jump on the
inside pry up on the bottom here that's
going to plumb the door to the
corrugation and then we'll start
riveting it in so just make sure that
you know you're not going up on a bit of
a parallelogram because then just like
this the door is actually catching the
bottom header or sorry footer so then
once we have this squared up that's
going to open and close perfectly
so chandler just put the first rivet in
there and then we'll come across here
and the first two are the most important
so we'll just make sure that this is
nice and square and then maybe we'll
even jump up top there and just make
sure that this thing's closing nice so
there now we have it closing nice the
only thing hitting is the latch ears
so up here we've slid in a little piece
of the top bulb seal as well and then
we'll just finish all that off with some
black caulking just to make sure that no
water penetrates through the header so
when using the top bulb seal because
it'll actually hold the header away from
the inside corrugation a little bit you
got to use longer rivets you can see
here these rivets just barely held if
they're holding at all so we're actually
going to drill those out and grab our
longer rivets and put those in but just
something to note if you're not using
the uh the top bulb seal and just
siliconing along the corrugations
perfectly fine to use the same depth of
rivets as along the side and then we've
also just put quick little dabs over the
rivets in case the center pin of the
rivet ever popped out and there's no
daylight or water getting through there
and so for this door and what we
include standard is the locking door
so keyed on the outside i guess read the
instructions on how these go in it's
you got the outside piece
two bolts will go right through and
this plate to the outside and then just
door seems to close really nice and
tight we have that automotive grade door
seal so this is meant for things that
use things like a car door right so this
door seal you know moves with the doors
so if you know the can moves the door
seal moves and it's not fixed and stuck
in one location so it'll always work
well so the final closing touches for
this door is like to include standard a
storm chain so that'll install up in the
header and then on the door and
basically when it gets to 90 degrees or
just over it stops the door from over
rotating and putting extra stress on the
hinges that isn't needed and so for this
door here the hardware that we've
included is the locking door lever and a
storm chain or check chain other options
that are available are the panic
hardware or crash bar we have a sight
glass option we can do a half glass
option and also a self closing device so
that right there is the installation
instructions for the container
modification world mandar if you like
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hope you learned something!
