Insulating a Shipping Container Home or Office - Komfort Insulation Interview
In this video, we are interviewing a Spray Foam Insulation expert from Komfort Insulation. He will explain why spray foam is the best way to insulate your shipping container, how many inches of insulation you need for your container home, and why Fiberglass Batt
Insulation should not be used in a sea can. Channing will later explain the importance of framing your container properly and with the right material. If you modify a Conex box incorrectly with wood, problems like mold, mildew and condensation can build up, causing health issues in the future.
Watch till the end to learn the safe and proper way to frame and insulate your tiny home or container modification!
http://komfortinsulation.com/
Purchase Container Modification World Products Used In This Video
YouTube Video Transcript
0:00
Hi I'm Channing McCorriston, the
0:01
container guy today we're going to be
0:03
installing a container modification
0:05
world man door in the end wall of a
0:07
40-foot shipping container if you're a
0:10
container supplier and you're looking
0:11
for one door that does everything
0:14
this is it
0:15
stay tuned
0:16
hope you learned something after landing
0:18
a deal on national television in 2011
0:21
where his team pitched their idea of
0:23
modifying shipping containers he went on
0:25
to start his own business
0:27
since then he's completed thousands of
0:29
container modifications for clients in
0:31
every major industry
0:33
now he wants to teach you everything he
0:35
knows about container modifications and
0:38
accessories
0:39
channing mccorrison is the container guy
0:48
the biggest problem that everyone has
0:50
when installing a man door in a
0:51
container including myself back in the
0:53
old days
0:55
how do you shed the water can't just go
0:57
to your local lumber yard and grab any
0:59
wooden door and install it in the can if
1:01
you line it up between two corrugations
1:04
and the outside corrugations you might
1:06
have straight lines there but then you
1:08
got the corrugations above the door with
1:10
this door here it has the rain drip and
1:13
this return fold edge here that tucks in
1:16
behind the corrugations
1:19
what i mean by a container door that
1:20
does everything is that the hinges and
1:24
the door latch are centered on this door
1:26
so this door can be rotated one way or
1:29
another this rain drip is actually
1:31
removable so if you decide to install
1:33
your rain drip up at the top here with
1:36
your hinges to the left now we have a
1:38
what we call a left hand outswing door
1:39
and then if this rain drip here was
1:41
installed on the bottom it would be a
1:44
right-hand door so
1:46
here we have the raindrips here the door
1:48
actually comes with two of them with
1:49
every door this rain drip uh with the
1:52
angled profile here is for the side wall
1:55
corrugations and then the other that's
1:57
just straight off that's for the end
1:59
wall corrugation so that's actually
2:00
what's uh riveted up there right now and
2:03
then finally this door will also work on
2:07
insulated containers so a smooth walled
2:09
container you just don't install the
2:11
raindrip at all
2:12
the header here just sits up nicely up
2:14
against the aluminum and then just nice
2:16
silicone job up top
2:18
[Music]
2:23
so this door frame it's designed uh it's
2:25
corrugation dependent so it works on
2:27
outer corrugations so it allows you to
2:29
move it every 11 inches or 278
2:32
millimeters make sure that you're always
2:34
referring to the drawing sent to you
2:36
with this door to make sure you're
2:38
cutting the right uh ro grab your
2:40
measuring tape measure
2:42
and see if you know common sense does
2:44
the arrow dimensions on the drawing
2:45
actually match what will work in real
2:47
life so one thing to really note uh is
2:50
just that the ro will be two inches
2:52
taller when you're using the the drip
2:54
caps so if you're installing this on an
2:56
aluminum insulated can you'll be cutting
2:58
it at uh for now it's eighty and three
3:01
quarters of an inch high where otherwise
3:03
here we're gonna be doing 82 and three
3:05
quarter high and then 37 inches wide
3:08
we're on
3:09
the outside corrugations on both so
3:12
somewhere
3:13
over here is where the door will be
3:15
riveted into place so nice wide chunk of
3:19
outer corrugation 82 and three quarters
3:21
up top that allows for our top bulb seal
3:25
and so if you're not using that just
3:27
make sure to provision for that extra
3:29
thickness
3:30
[Music]
3:34
so the next step is to cut out the rough
3:36
opening i just want to say we use an
3:38
angle grinder and a six inch cut off
3:40
wheel that's what we prefer leaves a
3:42
nice clean edge when you're done when
3:43
you're
3:44
cutting the bottom out especially we
3:46
provision for a little bit of weld left
3:49
underneath the footer so cut at the top
3:51
of the weld here
3:53
sink your cutting wheel right through
3:55
and then once you have that cut out just
3:58
clean off any of the corrugation that's
4:00
left standing but we leave about 3 16 of
4:02
an inch so if you leave a little bit
4:03
under there that actually supports the
4:05
threshold plate and then right before
4:07
you install the door just get a little
4:08
bit of silicone or caulk that'll just
4:11
seal that up from any ants or insects
4:14
from getting in underneath your door
4:15
another thing we want to note is just we
4:17
cut the bottom first and we leave a
4:19
little bit of sheet metal still attached
4:20
to the bottom corners so then once
4:22
you're done cutting up the sides and
4:24
across the roof and you drop the panel
4:26
outwards it just hinges on the bottom
4:28
and doesn't slide back into the can and
4:30
take out your ladder and hurt yourself
4:32
[Music]
4:37
we have this uh fancy top bulb seal it's
4:40
called so it's like an automotive grade
4:42
seal
4:43
we like to use it on the top edge of the
4:46
corrugations and so let's get started
4:48
here with it
4:50
it's very flexible
4:52
the end wall corrugations are a lot more
4:54
of a rigid corrugation than the sidewall
4:57
it still manages to round the corners
4:59
there's some door seal that doesn't have
5:02
any of the bulb on it it's just the edge
5:05
trim and then that you can go down the
5:07
sides with it and there so yeah that
5:09
just sits right up against the top uh
5:11
lip of the
5:12
top edge of the header so we use the
5:14
same thing for our uh windows our man
5:18
doors and the roll-up door frames and so
5:20
just instead of
5:21
using silicone or caulking we'll show
5:24
you what that looks like once it's
5:25
compressed and we try to get i think
5:27
about a
5:28
40 or 50 percent compression on the door
5:30
seal it just seems to be what the
5:32
manufacturer suggests
5:34
[Music]
5:38
so chandler's done a really nice job of
5:40
cutting this open and he just cleaned up
5:41
the corrugation and left the weld so our
5:44
door will just sit right on there we
5:46
just like to put
5:48
a thin layer
5:50
of silicone
5:53
all along the top edge of the
5:54
corrugation
5:57
[Music]
6:01
we're about to lift up the mandor right
6:03
now just make sure that the rain drip
6:06
here gets up underneath the corrugations
6:10
and then once we get it up there we'll
6:12
drill back through from the inside
6:14
through these laser-cut holes which will
6:16
hit all of the inside corrugations and
6:19
then we'll come from the outside and be
6:20
able to rivet those in place so we'll
6:21
just jump down here
6:29
and so on either
6:30
outside edge we kind of start at the
6:32
bottom and make sure that we are
6:34
centered between the outside corrugation
6:35
so a similar amount of corrugation left
6:37
on both sides and then as you go up with
6:40
this door right here it's actually
6:41
leaning just a slight bit to the one
6:43
side so we're just going to jump on the
6:44
inside pry up on the bottom here that's
6:47
going to plumb the door to the
6:48
corrugation and then we'll start
6:51
riveting it in so just make sure that
6:53
you know you're not going up on a bit of
6:55
a parallelogram because then just like
6:57
this the door is actually catching the
6:58
bottom header or sorry footer so then
7:01
once we have this squared up that's
7:02
going to open and close perfectly
7:04
[Music]
7:09
so chandler just put the first rivet in
7:10
there and then we'll come across here
7:12
and the first two are the most important
7:14
so we'll just make sure that this is
7:15
nice and square and then maybe we'll
7:17
even jump up top there and just make
7:18
sure that this thing's closing nice so
7:20
there now we have it closing nice the
7:23
only thing hitting is the latch ears
7:26
[Music]
7:41
so up here we've slid in a little piece
7:43
of the top bulb seal as well and then
7:45
we'll just finish all that off with some
7:47
black caulking just to make sure that no
7:49
water penetrates through the header so
7:51
when using the top bulb seal because
7:54
it'll actually hold the header away from
7:56
the inside corrugation a little bit you
7:59
got to use longer rivets you can see
8:00
here these rivets just barely held if
8:02
they're holding at all so we're actually
8:04
going to drill those out and grab our
8:05
longer rivets and put those in but just
8:07
something to note if you're not using
8:09
the uh the top bulb seal and just
8:10
siliconing along the corrugations
8:12
perfectly fine to use the same depth of
8:14
rivets as along the side and then we've
8:16
also just put quick little dabs over the
8:19
rivets in case the center pin of the
8:21
rivet ever popped out and there's no
8:22
daylight or water getting through there
8:29
and so for this door and what we
8:31
include standard is the locking door
8:34
lever
8:35
so keyed on the outside i guess read the
8:37
instructions on how these go in it's
8:39
pretty basic
8:41
you got the outside piece
8:43
inside
8:44
two bolts will go right through and
8:46
squeeze
8:47
this plate to the outside and then just
8:49
slide on
8:51
your interior lever
8:55
see how this
8:56
door seems to close really nice and
8:58
tight we have that automotive grade door
9:01
seal so this is meant for things that
9:05
move and
9:06
high
9:07
use things like a car door right so this
9:09
door seal you know moves with the doors
9:12
so if you know the can moves the door
9:14
seal moves and it's not fixed and stuck
9:17
in one location so it'll always work
9:19
well so the final closing touches for
9:22
this door is like to include standard a
9:24
storm chain so that'll install up in the
9:27
header and then on the door and
9:29
basically when it gets to 90 degrees or
9:31
just over it stops the door from over
9:34
rotating and putting extra stress on the
9:36
hinges that isn't needed and so for this
9:38
door here the hardware that we've
9:39
included is the locking door lever and a
9:42
storm chain or check chain other options
9:44
that are available are the panic
9:46
hardware or crash bar we have a sight
9:49
glass option we can do a half glass
9:52
option and also a self closing device so
9:55
that right there is the installation
9:57
instructions for the container
9:58
modification world mandar if you like
10:01
this video please give it a like if
10:03
you'd like to see more please subscribe
10:05
to our channel and hit the bell for
10:06
notifications or visit us at tcg.ca
10:10
hope you learned something!
Insulating a Shipping Container Home or Office - Komfort Insulation Interview
